FAQ: FREQUENTLY
ASKED QUESTIONS -Updated
Aug 2010: after 16 years of customer feedback
|
Q: WHAT IS THE BEST
WAY TO PROTECT POLISHED METAL FROM TARNISHING
Q: ARE THERE OTHER USES FOR NON-SKID
SEALANT™ - ON SHOE SOLES?
Q: HOW DO I
PREVENT/FIX STICKINESS OF NON-SKID SEALANT™ -TREATED DECKS ?
Q: DOES NON-SKID SEALANT PROTECT AGAINST
MILDEW?
Q: WHAT IS
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USE
OF
ELIXIR™ and the Cleanser/Conditioners (SEA GLOW™ and NEUTRAL
CLEAR™) FOR REMOVING OXIDATION FROM GELCOAT?
Q: CAN SUPERWAX™
(or MH Superglaze™)
SURFACE BE WASHED OFF BEFORE IT IS SET HARD?
Q: CAN SIMPLY BRILLIANT
SUPERWAX™ OR
MIRROR
HARD SUPERGLAZE™
SURFACES BE BUFFED OUT?
Q: HOW DO I DEAL WITH
WITH BLACK STREAKS IN THE SUPERWAX™
FINISH? ARE THERE WAYS OF PROTECTING AGAINST THEM?
Q: WHAT ABOUT
THE GREY STREAKS UNDER SOME METAL FITTINGS?
Q: I AM CONFUSED! WHAT
ARE THE SIMILARITIES/ DIFFERENCES &
SPECIFIC USES OF YOUR SURFACE
SEALANT/PROTECTANTS
(SILKENSEAL, SIMP. BRILLIANT SUPERWAX, MH SUPERGLAZE, NON-SKID SEALANT)?
Q: YOUR CLEANSERS SEEM
SIMILAR TO EACH OTHER, YET DIFFERENT IN SOME WAYS. WHAT ARE THE AREAS
OF
OVERLAP AND DIFFERENCES IN USES AND PROPERTIES?
Q: WHY
ARE ISLAND GIRL® PRODUCTS BETTER THAN THE
OTHERS THAT ARE AVAILABLE AT
MOST LOCAL STORES?
Q: WHY
ARE YOUR PRODUCTS EXPENSIVE ?
Q: ARE
YOUR PRODUCTS SAFE TO THE USER AND SAFE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?
Q: WHERE
CAN I GET YOU PRODUCTS IN A STORE? . WHY ARE THEY NOT IN THE WEST
MARINE
STORE WHERE I USED TO BUY THEM ?
Q: IF YOUR
PRODUCTS ARE SO
POTENT, WON'T THEY DAMAGE THE ITEMS TO BE CLEANED? WHAT ABOUT THE SEAMS
OF INFLATABLE DINGHIES?
Q: HOW LONG
WILL
THE EFFECTS
OF YOUR PRODUCTS LAST ON GELCOAT AND OTHER PLASTICS
Q: HOW MUCH
AREA
WILL THE
PRODUCTS COVER - HOW COST EFFECTIVE ARE THEY?
Q: WILL YOUR
CLEANSERS
REMOVE STAINS? WHAT ABOUT RUST STAINS?
Q: WHAT IS
THE
SHELF-LIFE
OF YOUR PRODUCTS - WHAT ARE THE BEST CONDITIONS FOR STORAGE?.
Q: WHAT IS THE
BEST WAY TO
USE THE PRODUCTS TO REMOVE PAINTED LETTERING FROM GELCOAT OR FROM AN
INFLATABLE
DINGHY?
Q: SOME
SURFACE
COATINGS
ON GELCOAT AND PLASTICS GO YELLOW - WHAT ABOUT YOUR PRODUCTS?
Q: DO YOUR
PRODUCTS HAVE
APPLICATIONS FOR GRAFFITI REMOVAL OR PROTECTION OF THE SURFACE AGAINST
GRAFITTI?
Q: WHAT USES
DO
YOUR PRODUCTS
HAVE IN THE AUTOMOTIVE, HOME OR OFFICE ENVIRONMENT?
Q: HOW DO YOUR
PRODUCTS COMPARE
WITH THE ACRYLIC-TYPE "FIBERGLASS RESTORERS"?
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO PROTECT POLISHED
METAL FROM TARNISHING?
MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™ can
protect polished brass or bronz for
over a year on boat fittings in a salty air environment (Hawaii).
Similar results should be seen with
SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax,
since both products have similar
resin and anti-oxidant content. Similar protection can be seen on cast
or anodized aluminum. CLICK
HERE to see the evidence!
Back
to top.
ARE
THERE OTHER USES FOR NON-SKID SEALANT™- ON SHOE SOLES?
Over
the last 4 years, there has been great interest in using our SEA
GLOW™
to
prevent and reverse yellowing of white and clear synthetic rubber on
collectible sports shoes. While SILKENSEAL™ is
a good sealant for the side areas, its use on the soles could make for
slipperiness on wet surfaces. However we now have many customers who
have followed out recommendation to use our NON-SKID SEALANT™
for sealing the surface of the soles, therefore keeping the
anti-aging
conditioners in the rubber material while making the soles both
water-repellant with no decrease in underfoot grip in the wet.
Back
to top.
HOW DO I
PREVENT/FIX STICKINESS OF NON-SKID SEALANT™-TREATED DECKS ?
Introduced, some ten years ago, our non-skid
sealant had originally been optimized for use on old porous gelcoat
non-skid. We soon had reports that on new (non-porous) gelcoat the
layer of resin emulsion was too thick and might therefore be slow to
harden, resulting in stickiness. We therefore reformulated our product
as a much less viscous emulsion that was easier to spread over large
areas of deck and dried quickly, PROVIDED THAT YOUR WIPED IT OFF TO
DRYNESS FIRST. Although illustrated in our DVD movie, use of this newer
product was not described on the original bottle label. That is why we
now include a printout of amended instructions with each order. Use of
our SB Catalyst™
is also a good idea. This can be applied to the
clean. dry deck surface (and wiped out to dryness) BEFORE application
of our NON-SKID SEALANT™
It is always a good idea to test a small area
before doing the whole deck.
Make sure to remove exess sealant from the
bottom of any grooves in diamond-patterned surfaces. And rise gently
with fresh water to remove suspending agent and test. You will
know when everything is right when there is extensive water
beading, the surface feels "rubbery" and footamerks just rinse
off with water. These details are dealt with in our "Online Instruction Book".
Back
to top.
DOES NON-SKID SEALANT PROTECT AGAINST
MILDEW?
Yes! In fact there is also protection against the growth of algae as
well. We made this modification to our formula about 4 years ago.
An additional advantage has been to render shelf life of this resin
emulsion, pretty much indefinite, since mildew is the main cause
water-based emulsions "going off".
Back
to top.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USE
OF ELIXIR™ and the
Cleanser/Conditioners (SEA GLOW™
& NEUTRAL CLEAR™) FOR REMOVING
OXIDATION FROM GELCOAT?
Of course, all our cleaners have evolved from
each other, but here are the basic similarities and differences, in
some historical context. Our first cleanser was
ISLAND
GIRL Pink™ which can be used with water dilution as a basic
cleaner.
Undiluted,
however it could dissolve away plastic gum and oxidation without damage
to the underlying plastic (see this LINK). It was designed to leave
NO
residue and so could also be used on carpet or woven fabric (LINK) From this product we
evolved our
Cleanser/Conditioners,
SEA
GLOW™
and NEUTRAL
CLEAR™. These products were more potent at removing
plastic breakdown products, such as gum and oxidation, and were
designed to impregnate the underlying plastic with anti-aging
conditioners that protected against UV damage, color fade and
restore
color
brightness. Most importantly,
the
conditioner was also designed to restore/maintain suppleness - since
these products were
designed to replace/augment plasticizers for vinyl and other soft
plastics.
However it soon became apparent (customer feedback) that these Cleanser/Conditioners
were also
great at removing oxidation and preserving fiberglass gelcoat. Here,
the
clear liquid conditioner was a mixed blessing. It penetrated the
gelcoat pores and gave depth to dark gelcoat and brightness to white
and colored gelcoat. However in
porous gelcoat, the liquid conditioner could rise up to the surface and
interfere with hardening of our new SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™ product. This is
why we had to recommend a
sealing coat of SILKENSEAL™ before
application of the SB
Superwax™. This is
the "3 Step Process" for gelcoat that is
very effective, but some people found confusing. However, this FLOW
CHART is easy to understand.
Then, during an online discussion about preserving
gelcoat with anti-oxidants, people mentioned a product called 303™. This is an
anti-oxidant/UV blocker designed for protection of fabrics. but
with claims that it also protects gelcoat. Results of our own
experiments (confirmed by several of our customers) showed that 303™ was not very effective in protecting
gelcoat, not even as as effective as our own SB Superwax™ used alone.
We thought that we could do better, so we experimented with our own
proprietary anti-oxidant/UV protective formulations [ for many years, we have had small
amounts of such ingredients in our Cleanser/Conditioners and
resin-based coatings] We combined these ingredients with
the solvent used in our cleaners and further combined them in a special
emulstion containing our SB Superwax™. We soon perfected this product and
introduced it in April 2006 as "ELIXIR™"
. It
preserves dark-colored gelcoat like no other product and dries
back to form a resin/wax sealed surface. Then we found that an
additional layer of MIRROR HARD Superglaze™ gave astounding gloss and
extra weathering protection that can last for years! This is the
so called "Hawaiian
2-Step Process" as illustrated HERE.
HERE
is a FLOW CHART comparing the older "3-Step Process" with the new
"2-Step Process".
The only limitation to
use of ELIXIR™
is that it lacks the
plasticizing
conditioner of our Cleanser/Conditioners so that it is
less suitable
for flexible vinyl, rubber etc as in upholstery, but can still be used
on more rigid items like fenders.
Back
to top.
CAN SIMPLY THE BRILLIANT
SUPERWAX™
(OR MIRROR HARD SUPERGLAZE™) SURFACE BE
WASHED
OFF BEFORE IT IS SET HARD?
Exposure of the SIMPLY
BRILLIANT™
or MIRROR HARD Superglaze™ coating to
water before it has hardened can DULL the surface (through
emulsification
and loss of some initially oily gloss enhancers) but
it is STILL waterproof (beading water). The wax certainly has NOT been
washed off, and the gelcoat is still protected!
Procedures
Using our SB
Catalyst™ (detailed
in our "Online
Instruction
Book") will accelerate hardening of our resin-based coatings.
Our our latest
"high
resin" version is particularly resistant to water dulling, being
completely water repellant within 30 min. If it does rain
during
application, the surface is easily repaired by wiping off excess
"oiliness"
(microfiber cloth) and applying a coat of SILKENSEAL™
- it's that easy!
Our
MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
has no wax content but many of the same resins as our SB Superwax™
The
main
precaution here is to apply it in a VERY THIN COAT so that the surfaces
is not excessively oily and slow setting. In both cases (and also when
using ELIXIR™)
gently wipe off any surface oiliness from additives rising to the
surface with a soft microfiber cloth.
Back to top.
CAN SB SUPERWAX™
OR MH SUPERGLAZE™
SURFACES BE BUFFED
OUT?
YES, when fully hardened.
but
do not use
liquid polishes or compound.
The shine from a coating of
these products
comes from their "flow out" to a wet-look surface. However, after
thorough hardening
of the resins (allowing at least one or two weeks) the surface is so
hard
that it can be hand buffed (microfiber cloth, paper towel or chamois)
to
a more "classic" look. Buffing out is really only necessary to remove
bits
of dirt or small insects that may have stuck to the surface while it
was
curing or to smooth the surface before applying another coat. However,
some customers who have used our products for years and have a nice
thick layer of resin, often just lightly run over the surface with a
machine buffer. We recommend using SILKENSEAL™ or CLEAR HORIZONS™ as
a lubricant for the buffer wheel to prevent "burning" of
the
surface. When hand buffing, we recommend applying a thin coating
of SILKENSEAL™ for a nice
"wet look" gloss and for extra
stain resistance.
DO NOT USE POLISHES, LIQUID WAXES OR RUBBING COMPOUND, SINCE THEIR
PETROLEUM-BASED
SOLVENT WILL DISSOLVE THE SURFACE AND IMBED THE GRITTY ABRASIVE.
Back to top.
HOW DO I DEAL WITH WITH
BLACK STREAKS
IN THE SUPERWAX™ FINISH? ARE THERE WAYS
OF
PROTECTING AGAINST THEM?
Black streaks and/or grey
streaks
are caused by air pollution (sooty material, boatyard dust, metal
corrosion). They are
washed by rainwater into rivulets that run down the side of the boat,
leaving
streaks of pollutant soaked into the surface wax or (if the boat is
neglected) gelcoat
pores.
Black
Streaks on Wax: OILY
POLLUTANTS
WILL SOAK INTO ANY SURFACE CONTAINING WAX (try dipping a candle into
old engine oil !). That is why store-bought "black
streak removers" are really just wax removers, often with little
dissolved silicone and/or wax to repair water-repellancy. This is also
a reason that our later versions of SB Superwax™
contain minimal amounts of synthetic wax to reduce chance of
deep-seated sooty stains.
On
waxed surfaces, try, ISLAND
GIRL
Pink™
mixed with water, progressing to undiluted IGP Pink™ for
more
stubborn streaks. After neutralizing with water and drying the
surface,
shine is touched up by a little SILKENSEAL™.
This
procedure also works on transom
exhaust
soot, where the SILKENSEAL™
coating helps protect against future stains.
Black Streaks in gelcoat pores: On
bare chalky/
porous
gelcoat (worse case scenario) use our
Cleanser/
Conditioners (SEA
GLOW™
or NEUTRAL CLEAR™ or our ELIXIR™ )
to restore the gelcoat prior to sealing and shining the surface as
described in HERE and in the "Online
Instruction Book".
Surfaces protected by
MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
are
less susceptible to sooty streaking (because there is no wax
present)
and they can often be removed by
gentle
rubbing with a microfiber cloth dampened with water or (better) a
little fresh MH
Superglaze™
Back to top
WHAT ABOUT
THE GREY STREAKS UNDER METAL FITTINGS?
We have reports that the salt water runoff from
aluminum fittings can leave a grey streak underneath even in the MIRROR HARD Superglaze™
coating that is generally resistant to sooty streaks.
The worst
case was of a boat that had aluminum track mounted on the cap rail, but
with NO bedding sealant (5200™ is usual). Then, seawater getting under
the track caused corrosion and a run off containing metal salts
that produced really pronounced grey streaks.
Normally, only a few such streaks
are seen because items are properly bedded and protected and can even
be protected from corrosion by a little MH Superglaze™.
To remove these streaks, use ELIXIR™ or
our Cleanser/Conditioners or even a little Xylene or Toluene. Then, if
necessary repair the shine with some more MH Superglaze™.
We can report that a coating of SILKENSEAL™
on susceptible areas will prevent these grey streaks from forming
and/or becoming deep-seated.
Back
to top.
I AM CONFUSED! WHAT ARE THE SIMILARITIES/
DIFFERENCES & SPECIFIC USES OF YOUR SURFACE
SEALANT/PROTECTANTS (SILKENSEAL, MH
SUPERGLAZE) SIMPLY. BRILLIANT SUPERWAX, NON-SKID SEALANT. ELIXIR)?
HERE ARE THE SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES:
SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™ (as now formulated)
is a mixture of fast and slow-setting
resins (no
water content) containing antioxidant, anti-UV preservatives and a
small
amount of suspended synthetic wax particles. Unlike
a conventional wax, it is wiped on as a coating that cures into a high
gloss waterproof film. However, when completely hard (after
several
days) it can be buffed as necesary. Although the film adheres
well
to underlying surfaces and is somewhat flexible it is most suitable to
seal the surface of fiberglass gelcoat that has been restored by our Cleanser/Conditionsers (SEA
GLOW ™and/or
NEUTRAL CLEAR™).
It can also be used on interior woodwork. The coating thickness is
generally
too thick for painted surfaces, which is why we developed the next
product
(below):
MIRROR HARD Superglaze™
contains no
wax, only
resins and is used as a VERY THIN, shiny coating over smooth
NEW GELCOAT or paintwork (where it also removes light oxidation).
It can also be used on bare metal some flexible plastics and
several
other surfaces. It gives very good protection of polished metal and
finished wood surfaces. Neither of these resin-based coatings will
every crack, yellow or peel.
ELIXIR™
This one of our latest products. It is more potent than our Cleanser/Conditioners
to selectively remove chalk and oxidation and other plastic
breakdown
products, while impregnating gelcoat and rigid or semi-rigid plastics
with anti-aging additives. Then, the product dries back to seal
the
surface with the same resin/wax ingredients as our SB Superwax™
The product holds the maximum amount possible of anti-oxidant and
UV-protective additives and brightening agents to "light up" white and
all colors, including "earth-tones". ELIXIR™ is
unbeatable in ability to protect dark-colored gelcoat against
oxidation and color fade, especially when used with an outer coating
of MIRROR HARD™
Superglaze™ as part of the "Hawaiian
2-Step Process".
ISLAND GIRL®'s
NON-SKID SEALANT™
(introduced, October 2001)
This emulsion of resins is best
used after preparation of the deck surface by ISLAND GIRL
PInk™,
since proper removal of chalk and stains is
necessary for long lasting results. It is highly water repellant,
and a good coating of this product prevents staining by air pollution,
and spills of old engine oil,
even
Sikkens' Cetol™ (that is removed with the area of non-skid sealant by IG
Pink™).
Specifically
designed for gelcoat non-skid decks, it is also finding use on other
"non-skid"
surfaces. We are currently testing this product
on Teak
decking. Another
potential use is sealing the surface of VERY POROUS gelcoat, prior to
application
of our Superwax™
or MH Superglaze™
. Best of all, It seals the underside of sports shoe soles without
reducing
underfoot grip on wet surfaces.
SILKENSEAL™ is
a water-based emulsion that cures into a thin,
very flexible
"plastic
skin" that is water-repellant and can be "silken" or very shiny as
required
(can be buffed to a shine). It can be used to seal all soft rubber and
plastic surfaces and can even be used as a water repellant coating on
dark Sunbrella® fabric ! On older restored
gelcoat, it
is used as
an
"undercoat"
for conventional wax or our SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™
and/or as a "quick shine" touch up for waxed or painted surfaces.
Because the emulsion suspending agent is also a detergent, it is also a
mild cleaning agent for leather and vinyl that is in good condition.
CLEAR
HORIZONS™ is also a
water-based emulsion
designed to clean glass and clear plastics, while leaving a water
repellant and
fingermark-resistant film. It's most remarkable effect is in increasing
the clarity of glass and reflectivity of mirrors, by filling in
microscratches in the surface. This property also reduces
glare on windshields. It can be used to shine painted surfaces as a
sort of "quick-detailer" and a lubricant for buffing.
Back to top.
Q: YOUR CLEANSERS SEEM
SIMILAR
TO EACH OTHER, YET DIFFERENT IN SOME WAYS. WHAT ARE THE AREAS OF
OVERLAP AND DIFFERENCES IN USES AND PROPERTIES?
AN EXPLANATION IS GIVEN
BELOW:
ISLAND GIRL Pink™ was
our original product and is (in our view) the world's
most
versatile
remover/cleanser. i.e. it removes (by dissolving) paint
overspray,
grafitti, many glues and sealants. It also acts as a cleanser/detergent
with varying properties and strength, depending upon the degree of
water
dilution. It is designed to be rinsed
off
with water leaving no residue.
By contrast SEA GLOW™
and NEUTRAL CLEAR™Cleanser/Conditioners
are slightly less versatile as cleansers but are a little
more potent
as removers
(especially effective in removing breakdwown products of plastic
oxidation).
They contain an anti-aging, suppleness-enhancing conditioner that soaks
into the underlying plastic (e.g. porous gelcoat or hardened vinyl).
This
conditioner also protects against oxidation and growth of mildew or
algae. YOU
DO NOT RINSE OFF THESE PRODUCTS WITH WATER (would remove too much
conditioner).
INSTEAD YOU JUST WIPE OVER WITH A WATER-SOAKED PAPER TOWEL, THEN TOWEL
DRY. YOU FINALLY SEAL THE SURFACE (using our sealant/protectants
- choise depends upon material being sealed) TO KEEP THE CONDITIONER
DOWN
IN THE PLASTIC.
SEA GLOW™
has the additional unique advantage of restoring and preserving
luminous
brightness of white or colored plastics, while further protecting
against
UV color fade.
ELIXIR™ combines the ability to remove
plastic breakdown products
(oxidation,
gum etc) while bein unexcelled in preserving against further oxidation
and color fade. It is "self-sealing" leaving a resin-wax coating that
can be used as is, or as an undercoat for our very shiny MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
product. It is NOT designed for really flexible plastics such as vinyl
and rubber since it lacks the suppleness-producing conditioners of our Cleanser/Conditioners.
Back to top.
WHY ARE
ISLAND GIRL®
PRODUCTS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS THAT ARE AVAILABLE AT MOST LOCAL STORES?
There are many
reasons,
of which the main ones are:
1. They are
scientifically designed
to be more versatile and effective than other available products
regardless of the costs of manufacture and marketing.
Therefore...
2. Just the few ISLAND
GIRL® Products
that make up our "system" replace most of the cleaning section at your
local store! By constrast, other manufacturers
often
put the same or closely similar ingredient in differently labelled cans
to make you buy
several
products without need for explanation by sales assistants.
3. Our products will
work where other
products CANNOT or do only a partially satisfactory job.
WE ARE THE ONLY
MANUFACTURER WHO HAS DARED
TO HOLD "CONTESTS" AT BOAT SHOWS AGAINST ANY EXISTING PRODUCTS FROM ANY
SIZE OF COMPANY! THIS IS IN ADDITION TO A FULL MONEY BACK GUARANTEE
THAT
THE PRODUCTS PERFORM AS ADVERTIZED (i.e. far better than other
products).
Back to top.
WHY ARE YOUR
PRODUCTS
EXPENSIVE?
MAINLY BECAUSE THE
INGREDIENTS
ARE EXPENSIVE
1. Most
manufacturers base
their "cleaners and polishes" on petroleum distillates and have smaller
bottle sizes. Alternatively, they use a very powerful (but neurotoxic"
glycol ether ("EM"), caustic (KOH), then add detergent and dilute with
water. In each case the product in the bottle often costs less than the
bottle itself! Would you pay almost $100.00 per gallon for
gasoline
or water?
By contrast, our cleaning
products contain
only the merest traces of water and have multiple ingredients,
some
of which are VERY EXPENSIVE (14 different ingredients in SEA
GLOW™
Cleanser/Conditioners).
Ingredients
of our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax™
and new NON-SKID SEALANT™ and MIRROR
HARD
Superglaze™
products are even more expensive, sometimes as much as $40 per
pound and are often hard to come by.
2. The real test is how much
can you get
done with our products, and how many different jobs with (say)
$20 of product, how
long it takes you and how long the effects last (TIME IS MONEY!).
WE KNOW THAT OUR PRODUCTS
BEAT ALL
OTHERS IN OVERALL COST EFFECTIVENESS AND THE
EFFECTS
ARE LONGER LASTING - YEARS IN SOME CASES (as seen by the length of time
before customers re-order). IN ADDITION, SHELF LIFE IS
PRETTY MUCH INDEFINITE UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS.
Back to top.
ARE YOUR PRODUCTS SAFE TO THE USER AND SAFE FOR
THE ENVIRONMENT?
A: YES
and YES!
1.
In choosing
the ingredients of for our products Dr. Willis (the inventor) weighed both
effectiveness
and
lack of toxicity. While a mouthful of most cleaners would
be fatal if swallowed, it might take more than a whole bottle of ours!
There is some potential for mild and reversible eye irritation with the
cleaners and sealants. We also very clearly post that fact that CHILDREN
SHOULD BE KEPT AWAY FROM THE PRODUCTS. Also, gloves and eye
protection are always advisable, since some people can be allergic,
even to latex, milk or glutens! Unlike petroleum or
concentrated
d-limonene-based cleaners our cleaners are not highly flammable (e.g.
try dipping a lit match into a bottle of IG Pink™ - it will go out!). They are classed as
combustible (if
strongly
heated
and/or vapors accumulate). Paper and cardboard are also classed as
"combustible".
Our products do not contain neurotoxic "EM" glycol ether or
caustic
components.
2.
There is a difference
between "biodegradable" and "biosafe". Snake venom is biodegradable!
Our
products are primarilly designed to be biosafe (low toxicity to
animal and marine life rather than designed to be highly
"biodegradable".
Highly biodegradable material can actually harm the environment by
encouraging
mildew/algae growth (remember that phosphates
encouraged
overgrowth of algae in the great lakes).
3. The
mildew/algae
inhibitors in our cleaners could be a problem IF THEY
WERE
PRESENT IN LARGE ENOUGH AMOUNTS. The amounts we use are just
enough
to accumulate in the plastic and prevent mildew/algae staining, not
enough
to be toxic to the user and below those that have to be
reported. However,
washing hands and/or using gloves is always a good idea to avoid
accumulation
on the skin. Sealing the surface
with SILKENSEAL™
keeps all these components down in the plastic and away from people.
4. Our SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™
and MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
do have combustible components.
They can also cause eye irritation and some people may have
sensitive
skin - don't rub your eyes !
The most recent version produces some fumes on hot surfaces.
Again, as with most products, it is a good idea to protect your eyes,
use
gloves/
wash your hands and use good ventilation and COMMON SENSE!
Back to top.
WHERE CAN I GET YOU PRODUCTS IN A STORE? WHY ARE
THEY NOT IN THE
WEST MARINE STORE WHERE I USED TO BUY THEM?
A: BUY
IT FROM US EVEN DISCOUNTED IN OUR MAIL ORDER KITS.
SINCE WE HAVE
NOW MOVED TO HAWAII THERE IS NO SALES TAX FOR MAINLAND CUSTOMERS!
There
are some dealers and detailers who do have this product locally, as you
can see by CLICKING
HERE.
West
Marine was a
privately owned company that used to have customer satisfaction as
their
main ethos. Consequently, they had a great "Manager Buy" system in
which
individual store managers could sell items that were regionally
specific/popular
or as a means of adding variety and trying out products prior to
centralized
buying. There were even "sign up sheets" at each store, for customers
to suggest new
products. With no sales force (only Dr. Willis) ISLAND
GIRL®
was very successful in demonstrating to many managers the
superiority
of our products. The phenomenal sales in several stores (Palo Alto, San
Pedro, San Diego, Long Beach from 1995-1997) also produced a "snowball
effect" in
which
a good proportion of West Marine stores carried our products. We
invested many thousands of dollars and much effort supporting the
product
through print advertizing, in-store demos etc with the obvious goal of
getting them to distribute for us.
Since
going public
(1997) , West Marine bought E&B Marine and became
overstretched
and over- inventoried.
Perhaps
understandably, at the time, they used their monopoly status to
reduce excess
inventory
and deal only with major suppliers or deal only with major distributors
(who take a 40-50% cut). They have essentially dropped
their
Manager Buy system, at least where maintenance products are
concerned
and are concentrating on their "own brands" (which are mostly
inferior).
To
obtain centralized
distribution, they now demand purchase of catalog and shelf space
(extra for end caps etc.), a "buy back" provision and up to $3 million
dollars liability insurance with payment to vendors at 3 months
after purchase by them! These
unilateral and sudden decisions severely
impacted ISLAND GIRL®
and several other makers of speciality products that were rated as
superior.
In 2000, they ostensibly returned to Manager Buys, but absolutely
discourage
them. Only one West Marine Store (Palo Alto) did insist on carrying our
cleaning products and they did sell strongly until there was a change
in staff at the store.
WM's
management are not allowing
purchase of our newer products and, frankly, we do not want them to
carry
them, because we would rather sell direct or through stores that have
remained
loyal throughout. From June 2001, most Boat/US stores carried our
inflatable
cleaning
kits (brought in after testing by by the maker of their inflatable
boats) from
June 2001 until West Marine bought THEM out!
You can
still buy
our products at TAP Plastics and
at the limited number of
independent
marine stores remaining (less than a dozen in the whole of
California?)
. The rest have essentially been driven out of business by the
aggressive
business practices of West Marine (who also are major wholesalers to
them) and
other discount chain stores.
If you
want to buy
through a retail store or a local detailer, we strongly recommend going
to our "Detailers
and Dealers" page for listings.
In
California,
we especially recommend TAP
PLASTICS
, and SVENDSEN's
FOR THE
REASONS GIVEN
ABOVE, WE HAVE FOCUSED ON DIRECT SALES TO THE PUBLIC VIA THE INTERNET
AS
AN ALTERNATIVE TO BEING DRIVEN OUT OF BUSINESS.
Remember, chain stores want 40-60% profit margins on cleaners and like
to deal through preferred wholesalers who like to make 40%. etc. If a
chain
store sells their own brand they are getting virtually all the profit and
they are not held to price matching agreements!
Buying
from
us
is the most cost effective way of obtaining ISLAND GIRL® products
and you can deal directly with the inventor/owner rather than someone
who
may be much less knowledgable.
Back to top.
IF YOUR
PRODUCTS ARE
SO POTENT, WON'T THEY DAMAGE THE ITEMS TO BE CLEANED? WHAT ABOUT THE
SEAMS
OF INFLATABLE DINGHIES?
A: THE PRODUCTS ARE
POTENT, BUT
GENTLE AND SELECTIVE IN NATURE
Undoubtedly the use of
potent
and NON SELECTIVE solvents can damage plastic surfaces. Ever
tried to use acetone to remove hull scuff marks from gelcoat and paint
or to clean fenders? You know it dissolves the surface!
Toluene
and Xylene
are useful in some instances but are toxic and can rot hypalon (which
is
otherwise resistant to most solvents). D-limonene (main ingredient of
citrus
products) is highly flammable and can dissolve vinyl and polystyrene
foam, used
in foam core hulls (try some in a foam coffee cup!).
By contrast, the potent
activity of OUR cleansers is largely "locked up"in a polymeric complex
from which
its
release onto the underlying surface is controlled. [See explanations HERE
and HERE].
Our cleansers therefore only
dissolve dirt and plastic
breakdown
products NOT the plastic.
When using our Cleansers,
there is need
to be careful with single part paints (especially lacquer as in nail
polish)
or celluloid (not really used anymore) . Also, any solvent or cleaning
product (including ours) that contains solubilizing
activity
can induce crazing in heat-stressed or previously crazed acrylic
items. This effect can even be produced by glues and sealants
containing
solvents.
Inflatable Seams:
a) We have soaked a
segment of hypalon
dinghy incorporating two- part-adhesive seams for over ten years
in
our NEUTRAL
CLEAR™Cleanser/Conditioner -
the seam remained completely intact (as seen in the illustration
below). A video version of a similar test with IG Pink™ can be
seen HERE.
b) Similar tests on a
two-part
glued PVC
dinghy segment showed continued adhesion (although some reversible
softening)
of the glue following 4- 45 weeks continuous soaking in NEUTRAL
CLEAR Cleanser/Conditioner™ or SILKENSEAL™
However, on PVC inflatables, the
seams
are usually welded (West Marine/Zodiac) and are therfore completely
resistant
to cleaners and solvents.
Single-part glues as commonly
used for
amateur or temporary patches or for attaching accessories. We
always recommend two-part glues for all inflatable uses. If you
are
not sure what sort of glue is used, simply keep the cleaners away
from the seams and/or neutralize with water if this does
occur.
How about Rainex® in
comparison with our
CLEAR
HORIZONS™product?.
Unlike the latter, Rainex contains solvent and acid and
therefore
cannot be safely used on clear plastics or eyeglasses. By
contrast, CLEAR HORIZONS™
is safe for all glass (even
optically coated) and all clear plastics.
Back to top.
HOW LONG
WILL THE EFFECTS
OF YOUR PRODUCTS LAST ON GELCOAT AND OTHER PLASTICS
A: MUCH LONGER THAN MOST
OTHER
PRODUCTS
Of course, the exact
answer has
to depend on the surface treated, weather, conditions of use , etc.
However, some
real- like examples are given below even under
tropical,
salt water conditions.
1.
Gelcoat:
Under tropical conditions (Honolulu, Hawaii) SEA
GLOW
™ and
our other cleansers have been used to protect the gelcoat from deep and
severe oxidation,
but the surface must be sealed to maintain surface gloss and to prevent
rain and seawater from leaching out the preservative conditioner. Here
are some examples on boats in Hawaii:
a)
MY BOAT
(white with dark green stripe)
Eleven Months earlier, the
gelcoat
was cleaned and conditioned with SEA GLOW™
and the surface sealed with 3-4 coats (to fill pits on cap rail) of SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™
(third version, made in Oct 2000). The dark green areas were
further
shined with SILKENSEAL™
at 2 months. All of the gelcoat had great water beading &
shine
for the first 7 (summer) months (see
illustrations). The last time that
the full
treatment was done was in Feb 2004 and water on the hull was still
beading at 5 years. The topsides and dark stripe have been done at
approx yearly intervals.
b) A
Mid Blue boat
After years of compounding
and waxing,
this boat had very thin gelcoat (some glass fibers were showing
through
near the waterline). It was restored beautifully to a bright blue,
mirror
finish by SEA GLOW™ followed
by SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax™.
The side exposed to the sun
started to
get a little dull and showed some water streaks by five months (should
have been touched in with SILKENSEAL™).
At ten and a half months, it is ready for another coat - this
time, using MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™ over the
original SB Superwax™
finish. It will not be necessary to redo the SEA GLOW™
treatment as the surface is still sealed, beading water, just as in the
beginning.
c)
California
Boats
Under less severe conditions
(Alameda
in Northern California) the red gelcoat of a Sailboat ("Dire Straits"
in
Alameda Marina dry storage). The gelcoat always comes up to a
brilliant
red by using SEA
GLOW™
Cleanser/Conditioner applied
with paper towel.
In March 1999, on the same boat,
we again
restored an area of gelcoat with SEA
GLOW™and
sealed the surface with the then current
version
of our SIMPLY BRILLIANT
Superwax™.
The color and shine were virtually undiminished over a full year.
In the same yard a similarly treated blue boat looked great after about
about 2 years, although it had been kept clean and was retouched
in some areas with SILKENSEAL™.
d)
Protection of a New Boat in Marina Del Rey (California)
Click
HERE for updates on a new boat
that had been treated from NEW (NO compounding or buffing) for 7 years.
2.
Vinyl:
A vinyl inflatable or new upholstery exposed to direct tropical
sunlight
can start to get sun damaged (sticky, discolored, eventually brittle)
within
as little as one year under tropical or desert sunlight conditions.
Even
new fenders and vents get sticky (due to plasticizer migration) within
6 months. Protecting them with SILKENSEAL™
will seal the surface against gumminess for at least 3 months, whether
on new items or those restored by our cleanser/conditioners. White
fenders
and vents can be made to last almost indefinitely, with
protection
against mildew as well as UV - induced breakdown: Use SEA
GLOW™, and
then seal the surface with SILKENSEAL™. More
recently, we have found that an additional coat of MIRROR HARD
Superglaze™ can alsmost completely eliminate staining and
gumminess for well over a year the TOPS (most exposed) areas of
white sem- rigid vinyl (vents, fenders).
3.
Hypalon:
My own Tinker Inflatable boat
(manufactured
by Henshaws in the UK) was on the davits of my sailboat in Honolulu for
5 years usually in a boatyard that generates huge amounts of
dust.
The boat was periodically cleaned (about once a year since 1995).
Initially, ISLAND
GIRL Pink™
(then our only product) was used for cleaning, but more recently
we used NEUTRAL
CLEAR™Cleanser/Conditioner
(on the mustard-colored hypalon) and SEA
GLOW™
(on the red vinyl apron). SInce 1996, the surface has also been sealed
after cleaning with SILKENSEAL™
. As of this website
update (Jan
2002), the hypalon is still supple, and the seams still OK after
all
these
years of cleaning (using a mild scuff pad to get into the grain). The
hypalon
still comes up almost "like new". The red vinyl had always come up
beautifully,
but finally (after 5 years) the vinyl coating was worn so thin that the
underlying
fabric was exposed, which is getting brittle and tearing. A
new red
apron
(ordered from Henshaws) has been put on with two-part adhesive, but
this
time it is made of hypalon to keep the whole boat lasting well.
NO problems with the adhesive bonding were seen. The US importers of
Tinker inflatables recommended
and
sold only ISLAND
GIRL® for care of their their
new
and used boats.
Back to top.
HOW MUCH
AREA WILL THE
PRODUCTS COVER - HOW COST EFFECTIVE ARE THEY?
A: BECAUSE
THERE IS NO
"FILLER" THESE PRODUCTS GO A VERY LONG WAY. THEY ARE ALSO MORE
VERSATILE
THAN OTHER PRODUCTS. THEREFORE THEY ARE MORE COST EFFECTIVE. I
will
give examples:
1. Smooth
gelcoat:
To clean and condition the
gelcoat,
we recommend using NEUTRAL
CLEAR™ cleanser/conditioner
for neutral shades such as beige and SEA
GLOW™ for
white, blue and other bright colors.
If the gelcoat is not very
porous, one
bottle ($30-40), much less as part of a kit) can do the complete
topsides
or complete hull sides of up to a 30ft boat, in less than half a
day.
On the other extreme, if there is much freeboard and/or the gelcoat is
so porous that it will not take a shine by conventional compounding and
polishing, 2-3 times the amount of cleanser may be
required.
The shine will be restored and the gelcoat preserved for years as
long
as the surface is kept sealed by the products below.
One bottle of SIMPLY
Brilliant Superwax™
can seal the gelcoat of an older 20- 30 ft boat, provided that SILKENSEAL™
is used as an undercoat to minimize initial "soaking in"
of the wax
(seen
as dull blotchy areas). On a new boat, our new MIRROR
HARD
Superglaze™
will
do up to a 35ft boat. It has low viscosity and
therefore
spreads a long way on NEW gelcoat (or painted surfaces) that do not
soak
up the product as older porous gelcoat will do.
How about cost
effectiveness? What
can be accomplished in 1-5 hours by hand with our products would
take much longer using power buffing wheels etc (usual labor cost of
$600
and up). For gelcoat that is
highly
porous, the only alternative is wet sanding down to good gelcoat (if
there is any!) followed by compounding and buffing (thinning the
gelcoat even more) with huge labor costs.
In the end, when the good
gelcoat is almost gone wet
sanding, masking
(one day's work right there!) and then an LPU job (up to
$10,000
in yard fees). REMEMBER OUR
PRODUCTS CAN BE USED BY HAND (or
cordless
tools) WITH THE BOAT IN THE WATER, so you also save on haul -out fees !
2. Dulled
LPU:
Just wipe over with MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
. One
bottle (approx $60) does at least
one
coat (with minor oxidation removal) on up to a 40ft boat in less than
half a
day, even in the water! If more oxidized (or there is single part
paint), first use our ELIXIR™,
for results like THIS.
3: Gelcoat
non-skid:
Every
try buffing
out the chalk, stains and grime from non-skid? It cannot be done
without eventually removing the non-skid surface! However,
ISLAND
GIRL Pink™
or our Cleanser/Conditioners
or ELIXIR™
just dissolve it away (up to a 30ft boat. For light
cleaning,
especially over a sealed surface (below), the product can be used with
water dilution and it then goes even further!. When the surface is
sealed
with our new NON-SKID
SEALANT (12
Oz does up to a 30ft boat) hosing and
mild
brushing quickly removes dirt, grime and bird droppings. Time saved: over a
year
of routine scubbing with great results.
4: Vinyl
fenders and vents:
Larger fenders can cost up
to $90.00,
each while even small vinyl cowl vents are now about $40.00 each, -
they
run up to $120.00 for the large screw-in type. Each boat has
about
3-4 of each of these items. SEA
GLOW™
and SILKENSEAL™
together (less
than $50 (cheaper as part of a kit) is enough product to protect
is up to 20 fenders or vents and/or double the market value of an
older inflatable boat. Older items can be restored - while newer
items
almost never get old, and this in addition to the uses on
gelcoat, upholstery,
etc! Use our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze™
(approx $60, cheaper in a kit) and once a year cleaning may be all that
is necessary and it does gelcoat, paint and metal as well! - NEED
WE
SAY MORE?
5. Inflatable
Dinghies:
In hot, humid climates,
even a covered
inflatable dinghy can get deep-down mildew spots - especially if made
of
white hypalon. NEUTRAL CLEAR™
or SEA GLOW™ Cleanser/Conditioners
can prevent (but not reverse) mildew growth), especially when the
surface
is sealed against spore penetration by SILKENSEAL™"plastic
skin" surface sealant. Cost
of a new dinghy? about $1,300- $8,000. Got an older dinghy that
looks
terrible? Restore it like new so that its value is increased by
several
hundred dollars. Remember cost to you is less than $50.00 and
there
is
still enough product for other uses (above).
Got a vinyl dinghy (older
West
Marine, Zodiac?
). A year or more exposure to direct sunlight will make it go
sticky,
yellowed and brittleness will begin (because of loss of plasticizers
and
drying out). Mildew is also a problem in Florida. Cost of the dinghies
- about $800 -$2,000 - protect it for about $30.00! Same
argument goes for vinyl upholstery, headliner, lifelines etc, using the
same
products.
Cost to replace our few
products with a
plethera of "specialized" but comparatively ineffective products? MANY
HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, WITH MORE LABOR AND LESS SATISFACTORY &
DURABLE
RESULTS!
Back to top.
WILL YOUR
CLEANSERS
REMOVE STAINS? HOW ABOUT RUST STAINS?
A: DEPENDS ON THE NATURE OF
THE STAIN
There are two types of
stains
- those that are in the intermolecular spaces or voids of
plastics
and
those that become part of the actual polymeric material of the plastic
or other material to be cleaned (essentially "dying" the material)
Dealing with the first
example, rust
clearly is water-related and produces stains in gelcoat or vinyl only
in
so far as it penetrates the pores and voids. In gelcoat, the
chalk
that gets deep down in crevices of the gelcoat acts like blotting paper
for rust as well as oily stains such as diesel soot. Many people
(including myself) have found that ISLAND GIRL Pink™
gets most such stains out of the gelcoat. Our Cleanser/Conditioners
would also be expected to work like this but with an added color
brightening effect. HOWEVER,
IF RUST STAINS ARE VERY DEEP, A Chemical "Rust dissolver" or
oxalic-based
stain remover may be also be necessary. If you have problems,
contact us by e-mail
On vinyl, many stains are
actually only
present in the intermolecular spaces filled by plasticizer and can be
dissolved
out by our cleaning products (use ISLAND
GIRL Pink™
Cleanser or NEUTRAL
CLEAR™
Cleanser/Conditioner except
for white material where SEA
GLOW™
could be of additional benefit. There are numerous
examples, including
staining of a white West Marine Inflatable by its blue cover and
newsprint stains on vinyl upholstery . In both cases, these stains could be
removed by our Cleanser
Conditioners and stains
prevented by a coating of SILKENSEAL™ (see
testimonials).
By contrast, solvent-based
stains may incorporate
the stains directly into the material and they cannot then be removed
without
removing some of the surface (scuffing, sanding, using
non-selective
solvents such as acetone). Examples are the irremovable shadow
from
marker pens. The yellow stain remaining on vinyl fenders from tar
and creosote (similarly for cotton fabric) is also typical of
irreversible
staining.
In Honolulu, at Ala Wai
boatyard, brown
mottling on white vinyl cowl vents and fenders comes from traffic
film.
Similar stains are sometimes seen under the flight path of
airports.
Again, such really stubborn stains can only be removed together with an
outer layer of vinyl (use acetone or MEK).The vinyl surface may still
be
repaired and sealed by SILKENSEAL™
and/or MIRROR HARD Superglaze™. These
would likely have prevented deep staining in the first place.
Back to top.
WHAT IS THE
SHELF-LIFE
OF YOUR PRODUCTS - WHAT ARE THE BEST CONDITIONS FOR STORAGE?
A: EVERYTHING LASTS
LONGER
AT MODERATE TEMPERATURES AND WITHOUT PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO SUNLIGHT OR
DAMP. FREEZING CAN DISRUPT SOME WATER BASED EMULSIONS.
However our current products are very stable, as discussed below:
Our Cleansers (ISLAND
GIRL Pink™,
NEUTRAL CLEAR™, SEA
GLOW™)
will not lose activity for least five years under normal
conditions. Some of our original batches of cleansers still work fine
after
nearly 10 years! Consequently, as we
upgraded
our cleaning products (1996-1997) we were able to take older product
back
for additional components to be added.
However, when exposed too long
to heat
and direct sunlight, there can be some loss of the added dye color (SEA
GLOW™
will go greenish and IG Pink will become pale). Also earlier batches of
NEUTRAL CLEAR™
may go slightly straw colored. In all
cases,
there is no loss of effectiveness. SInce water reduces
activity
of the cleansers, prolonged exposure to high humidity, in an open
vessel, could conceivably reduce activity to some degree.
CLEAR HORIZONS™
has undiminished activity (in its original sealed bottle) for at least
5 years. SILKENSEAL™
has similar stability, provided that it is not exposed to high
heat/humidiy,
especially with the opened bottle exposed to high mildew
conditions.
The catalyst for our BLUE
HAWAIIAN
MASKING GEL™also
lasts some 5 years, even when exposed to hot climatic conditions.
The gel component itself now has added inhibitors of biological
degradation
and shelf life (in Hawaii's climate averaging 80-85 degrees F is
so far over 3 years of shelf life is seen (would be even more
stable under cool
conditions).
We did originally have
some shelf
life problems with the very first
versions
of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax™
. The earliest versions (April 1999 to July 2000) were formulated as a
water-
based emulsion containing organofunctional
cross-linkers.
If not used soon after purchase, the cross- linkers started to
break
down in the bottle at high temperatures, so that by 6 months to a
year the wax film did not always harden properly (although this
could
be "fixed" by SILKENSEAL™)
. Adding preservative and increasing the concentration of cross- linker
ingredients caused a different problem when stored at high temperatures
- the product tended to "kick off" in the bottle, resulting in a
"gel" that did not spread evenly. WE
REPLACED THIS OLD PRODUCT, FREE OF CHARGE, WITH OUR NEW FORMULATION
(described
below).
We
completely reformulated the product in the fall of 2000 The
new formulation of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax™ contains NO
water
and has stability of at least 4 years in Hawaii's climate (70- 85
degrees
F). Any waxy material
curing
on the surface of the bottled product has negligable effects on product
performance (there is ample excess of waxy ingredients). However,
if you wish, this hardened material can be redissolved by setting
the bottle in the sun and vigorously shaking the bottle (DO NOT
USE FLAMES OR OTHER MEANS OF HEAT). There have been several
improvements to this formula over the years for faster hardening, but
shelf life is still essentially indefinite.
Our NON-SKID
SEALANT™ once
had
a
problem with mildew growth in the bulk or bottles product. This
was in spite of the usual addition of a biocide
in the recommended amount to preserve water-based emulsions.
Later (from 2006) addition of an anti-mildew/anti-algae additive to
protect the
decks had the additional effect of rendering the emulsion rock stable
for at least 4 years!
Back to top.
WHAT IS THE
BEST WAY
TO USE THE PRODUCTS TO REMOVE PAINTED LETTERING FROM GELCOAT OR FROM AN
INFLATABLE DINGHY?
A: LOOK FOR DETAILS
in "Online
Instruction Book".
ISLAND GIRL Pink™
Cleanser
(or more potent) NEUTRAL
CLEAR™
Cleanser/Conditioner can
remove
paint marks, overspray and painted lettering from gelcoat, and
inflatable
dinghies constructed of vinyl or hypalon. (See
testimonials). In general, you just apply the product, allow to
soak
for a few minutes and use a mild scuff pad to remove the crinkled and
partially
dissolved paint. [NOTE: Most pigmented paints do not stain
the underlying material]
Back to top.
SOME
SURFACE COATINGS
ON GELCOAT AND PLASTICS GO YELLOW - WHAT ABOUT YOUR PRODUCTS?
A: OUR PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED
TO BE NON-YELLOWING
Acrylic coatings
usually go yellow
with exposure to UV although this can be reduced by adding UV
inhibitors,
anti-oxidants, and optical brighteners. Conventional waxes are
yellow
in color to start (carnuaba itself is yellowish). Furthermore
both
waxes and vinyl protectants usually contain aminofunctional
silicones
to impart detergent resistance. Too much, or the wrong sort of these
ingredients and yellowing can be produced
under high heat/UV conditions. However, most wax coatings are very thin
and slight yellowing would only be noticable over white surfaces.
We find that residual amounts of fluorescent conditioner from SEA
GLOW™
after cleaning/restoring white vinyl, hypalon and gelcoat
combine
a little with the surface SILKENSEAL™)
and eliminate any potential for yellowing. The
new version of SIMPLY BRILLIANT™
Superwax and of MIRROR HARD Superglaze™
cannot become yellowed because of the special nature the ingredients.
We
once had a problems with
yellowing of
an older version of SILKENSEAL™ when
used after NEUTRAL CLEAR™
to clean and condition old vinyl chairs that were located
in
the flight path of an airport. Chairs that were covered did not
yellow!
Since
then, formula
modifications and procedural changes have virtually eliminated
all
yellowing problems except when produced by excessive and
prolonged
air pollution. Then, the slightly yellowed surface sealant is
easily
removed by again cleaning and resealing (the underlying plastic has not
yellowed).
Back to top.
DO YOUR
PRODUCTS HAVE
APPLICATIONS FOR GRAFFITI REMOVAL or PROTECTION OF THE SURFACE AGAINST
GRAFITTI?
A: YES (see
Testimonials, Online
Instruction Book.)
ISLAND GIRL Pink™
is good for removing paint,
marker pen and crayon marks from even quite
delicate surfaces (vinyl awnings, painted surfaces, such as house walls
and lexan). It also works on concrete (prolonged soaking and wire
brushing). NEUTRAL
CLEAR™
is more potent and has been successfuly tested by the Hawaii bus
company
and the Honolulu City Council on road signs. MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
has been tested on road signs bus-stop signs and white vinyl
fences. It prevents marker pen or
spray paint from penetrating and bonding with the underlying surface so
that they were very easiliy removed (with a layer of the resin
coating) by ISLAND GIRL Pink™
or NEUTRAL CLEAR™.
Back to top.
WHAT
USES DO YOUR
PRODUCTS HAVE IN THE AUTOMOTIVE, HOME OR OFFICE ENVIRONMENT?
A: FOR DETAILS, SEE "Online
Instruction Book".
Obviously, our products can be
used to
restore/protect the fiberglass gelcoat of camper tops and RVs.
Automotive,
RV and home/office vinyl upholstery also benefits from use of our
products. SILKENSEAL™ is
also good as a protective coating on automotive
leather, leather clothing and shoes, or rubber tires. CLEAR
HORIZONS™ is
good for mirrors, windshields
etc
is perfect for eyeglasses, and
CD and DVD disks.
Our new MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™
is
especially suitable for use on auto paint that is slightly oxidized
(removes
oxidation and seals) and for external protecting chrome and other
metal surfaces
against corrosion.
In the Home/Office environment,
ISLAND
GIRL Pink™
cleans up marker pen,"liquid paper" marks and spills etc, or children's
crayon marks on walls. ISLAND GIRL Pink™
, used with any appropriate water dilution, is also used to remove
stains
on carpet or fabric, ranging from food and pet stains all the way up to
oil or paint spills.
During auto repair jobs, use
ISLAND
GIRL Pink™
to clean up silicone and other sealants, paint overspray etc. Use
our Blue Masking Gel™
for tricky masking jobs, around rubber moldings, emblems and engine
parts.
Use MIRROR HARD Superglaze™to
protect plated, anodized and bare metal parts around the engine
compartment
(e.g. alternators, distributors). It is unexcelled for protecting
chrome
brightwork against salty air corrosion (as tested on Windward Oahu, HI).
Back to top.
Q: HOW DO
YOUR PRODUCTS
COMPARE WITH THE ACRYLIC-TYPE "FIBERGLASS RESTORERS"?
A: VERY WELL!
Several of the acrylic finishes
have had
problems such as yellowing, cracking and peeling. They all soak into
the
the gelcoat pores, where they eventually go grey. Such
acrylic
products are difficult to remove from gelcoat pores even with an
ammonia-based
stripper. Sometimes wet sanding has to be used!
Their use on brand new gelcoat is NOT advisable (since the coating will
peel) and they are not
suitable
for use on paint, chrome or flexible plastics (they will not
stick).
We have used one of these products
(Poliglow™)
with satisfacory results to seal a piece of old red gelcoat that had
first
been restored by our
own Cleanser/Conditioner, ( SEA
GLOW™).
It is possible that such acrylic sealants could be useful on
metalflaked
gelcoat where the flakes are showing through. However,
solvent-based
polyurethane , or even our own gelcoat sealant products (especially MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™)
is also suitable.
With this exception, we
prefer our
own products: Use SIMPLY
BRILLIANT Superwax™
to seal the surface of restored gelcoat. SILKENSEAL™can
be used as an undercoat and/or "quickshine" touch up for any wax,
including
our SB Superwax™.
MIRROR
HARD Superglaze™ is
more
suitable for painted surfaces, polished wood, metal, NEW gelcoat and
gelcoat previously restored by our "3 Step" or "2-Step System".
No acrylic coating can be used for these purposes!
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